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Our resident wine experts' sensual journeys through tasting and pairings.

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Wine Flights of Fancy

With a wine list that exceeds 800 selections, multiple “Best of..." Awards of Excellence from Wine Spectator, and the prestigious Award of Unique Distinction from Robert Parker's Wine Enthusiast, the Cliff House is sure to have the perfect wine to compliment your dining experience. To guide you through our vast collection, we currently have multiple certified sommeliers, 2 of which are certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers.

The Essentials of Wine Storage

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Wine is stored in a variety of ways - from the initial picking of grapes to when the bottle is tipped above your glass.  The ephemeral beauty of wine is delicate and temperamental, thus, an understanding of how best to coddle this fleeting art form is of benefit to those who would enjoy a perfect glass.

In The Beginning...

grapes on a vine in a vineyardIn the vineyard grapes are picked and transported to the winery in a variety of ways.  Some are mechanically harvested into large trucks and delivered in bulk to the winery.  Some are hand picked into small tubs and attended to immediately upon arrival.  There are even grapes picked in the cool of night, placed in small tubs, and processed with dawns first light.  All of these choices have an impact on the final product.  Once the grapes are delivered, more decisions are made.  Should the wine be fermented in stainless steel, concrete vats, aged oak vats, or in small new oak barrels?  How long should the wine be held before releasing it?  Should the wine be aged in oak, stainless steel, on the lees, in the bottle?  These decisions have a dramatic effect on the wine produced, and should give some indication of what to expect.

Off to Live the Life of Wine

Okay, the bottle has left the winery.  It’s on the shelf in a liquor store.  What now?  The cardinal rule - heat and light are the enemies of wine.  Some wines are compromised before we have the opportunity to screw them up ourselves. Typically, an inexpensive wine, made to be drank young, is not a risk that merits much investigation.  However, if you are investing in an expensive wine - crafted to age for years - some knowledge of who imported or shipped the wine and how it may have been handled should be requisite prior to purchase.  It’s always a good idea to speak with the wine store manager, who can give you the distributors’ contact information, or to research the wine on-line.  If you plan to cellar a bottle, it’s important to know the wine has been handled well.  Did it get too hot on a long ocean voyage?  Has it sat in the sun on a shelf for a couple of months?  Was it stored upright for an extended period of time?  When investing in wine it’s best to know the answers to these questions.
With regard to personal storage, every wine wants to return to its’ roots.  A cool, dark cabinet performs well, and, if possible, a controlled humidity of sixty-five or seventy percent is ideal.  Wine bottles should be stored on their sides to ensure the cork is well saturated and swollen - creating a tight fit with the neck of the bottle.  Wine should be stored under stable conditions, without tempeture, light, or humidity variation.  Essentially, the closer you get to recreating the conditions of a grape vines’ roots - under ground, dark, moist, constant - the more cellaring will reward you.

Wine bottling and corking techniques also have a role to play.  True with many things; judge the product, not the package.  A fancy bottle can hide a bourgeois juice and countless great wine comes with inauspicious wraps.  Yes, even boxed wine can be a good option.  When boxing wine, less capital is diverted toward packaging and more funds (possibly) allocated toward crafting a better juice.  Additionally the foil bladder inside the box collapses around any remaining wine, reducing oxidation, and increasing the wines’ overall longevity.  Follow your own tastes, but for an everyday option, don’t rule out the box.

Put a Cork in It? Or Screw it Up?

Wine bottles with corksTo cork or not to cork?  This remains the question.  There are passionate experts on both sides of this issue.  Certainly with some cork trees nearing endangered status, it behooves us to consider sustainability.  Additionally, somewhere between five and ten percent of wine is faulted due to bacteria in the cork itself, not only a significant waste, but also a rude surprise when your last bottle of a rare vintage is undrinkable.  To mitigate this many wines are now capped with a screw top or Stelvin closer.  This reduces the likelihood of a tainted wine, costs less than cork, and eases some of the burden on cork trees.  Stelvin closers do, however, seem a little less graceful when opened, and for many, have connotations of plonk (a wine of poor quality.)  This may have been the case in the past; it is not today.  Many great wines are capped with the Stelvin closer.  Another new stopper is the glass lock, simply - a glass cork with a rubber seal.  Perhaps a touch more classy, the glass lock does allow for a little more opening ritual.  When a wine is designed to age in bottle, the cork issue becomes more complicated.  Prevailing thought has always held some transfer of oxygen, through the cork, was necessary for the wine to mature and develop its’ bouquet.  While the jury is out - it is likely to be some time before you see Chambertin with a screw top.

The Final Solution: Drink it!

When storing an opened bottle of wine you have a few options.  The goal is to slow the rate of oxidation.  Try a wine pump - designed to remove oxygen from the bottle, creating a partial vacuum, or try a wine preservative - essentially inert gas that will blanket the juice and seal out oxygen.  Failing either of these, put the opened wine in the refrigerator, and yes, even your reds.  Lowering a wines’ temperature also slows oxidation, just be sure to pull your red wine out an hour or so before serving.
Given a little information, wine storage is intuitive and straightforward, requiring little more than a cool cupboard, rarely opened.  Box, cork, Stelvin and glass lock closers all have their place in today’s market, though they may tell less about the quality of the wine than they have in the past.  Having passed through many loving hands, the bottle you hold is entrusted to your care.  A gentle touch is usually rewarded.  Remember – all wines long for their roots.  Cheers.

The Mystery of Wine Pairings

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

What wine will go well with my meal…or maybe, what meal will go well with my wine? In any case, there are many components to what we eat and what we drink: textures, flavors, weights, and chemical compositions, let alone the relationships created when we combine their various elements! It is also true you can spend a lifetime honing your ability to craft memorable pairings of greater depth, interest, and cohesion.

There is No “Wrong” Answer

Given wine and food’s potential complexity, making good pairing decisions are well within the ability of almost everyone, and many of the choices you make will be based upon personal preference.

Lets say that once more in a different way: First and foremost – drink what you like. Wine is truly and completely subjective, with great latitude for personal preference, and while some wines are better suited to some foods, don’t make the mistake of drinking a wine you simply won’t enjoy because some wine expert says it’s a great wine. That said; most of us don’t know everything we like, so be adventurous, try new things, and take a risk from time to time. The reward of that surprising discovery when you stumble upon something extraordinary is absolutely priceless.

Harmony or Contrast?

When I choose wine to pair with a meal, I start with a simple question: Do I want the wine to work in harmony with the food, or do I want to offer some contrast? Certainly, when your meal and your wine are in perfect harmony, you can loose track of when you are eating and when you are drinking, the two merging into a seamless whole, more than the sum of their components. On the other hand, contrast yields the brightest experience, with each element showcasing the other for what it is not. Even so, in contrast, most pairings will have some echo, or complimentary aspects. All pairings should showcase your meal to its’ best advantage.

Here’s an example: Our entrée is Salmon Oscar. The salmon has a medium to full flavor, it is pan seared imparting a little smoky, caramelized aspect, and topped with crab, asparagus and béarnaise. To work in harmony with this dish we might choose a lush, oaky Napa Valley Chardonnay, hoping to pair the creaminess of the wine; buttery, ripe, soft, full; with the richness of the béarnaise sauce and the sweetness of the crab. We might also pair this entrée with a rich Oregon Pinot Noir, again in harmony, looking to accentuate the earthiness of the salmon while maintaining a creamy texture. To contrast the Oscar, we might try crisp Muscadet from the western Loire Valley of France. The wine’s light, briny quality begs for seafood, while its high acidity cleanses the palate of heavy sauces, making each bite taste like the first. If you prefer a red wine to provide contrast with the Oscar you might try a nice Italian Chianti Classico, with its characteristic tangy, cleansing acidity, woody backbone and focused minerality.

Here’s another example: Our entrée is grilled Filet Mignon topped with a light Danish Blue Cheese. To work in harmony with this dish we might try a big Australian Shiraz, the smokiness of the wine complimenting the filet’s grilled preparation and the cheese serves to soften the tannins of the wine. We could also try a youthful, vibrant, red Bordeaux, whose body is up to the challenge of grilled meat and whose terroir driven earthiness showcases the blue cheese. If we wanted to provide contrast to this dish, we might try an aged, German Auslese Riesling, whose high acid and high sugar can handle the weight of the entrée while cleansing the palate and making the Danish Blue Cheese sing.

Pairing 101

Here are some basic pairings you can use to take some of the guesswork out of wine selection.

Most importantly, the over-all weight of your wine should mirror the weight of your meal. A heavier meal does better with a heavier wine (and a lighter meal with a lighter wine) because both can assert their attributes without overpowering each-others qualities. You certainly would not want to spend one hundred dollars on Grand Cru Chablis, and be unable to taste it through your barbecue ribs! Likewise, the delicate flavors of abalone or lobster are almost sure to be lost in the robust Malbecs from Argentina.

Typically, white wine goes best with seafood, light poultry, and pork; and works well with sauté, poaching, steaming, and frying.

Some white wines you may consider, arranged light (top) to heavy (bottom):

  • Pinot Grigio
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Riesling
  • Pinot Blanc
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Viognier
  • Chardonnay

Red wine pairs nicely with beef, lamb, wild game, and darker poultry; and compliments roasting, grilling, brazing, searing and smoking.

Some red wines arranged light to heavy:

  • Pinot Noir
  • Grenache
  • Merlot
  • Zinfandel
  • Sangiovesse
  • Syrah
  • Malbec
  • Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine and food pairings can be as simple or as complex as you want them to be. Everyday choices made with a little knowledge, common sense, and personal tastes will serve you well. And, when you decide to create a little beauty, delve into the myriad and complex nuances of food and wine and craft something memorable.

Salute!

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